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Thursday, April 15, 2010

Counterfeit Wine, Who'd of Thunk?


Here is a news article I found online at a CBS news site.

Apparently, some wine producers have been purposefully mislabeling their product to foist lesser wines off as expensive ones.

Now, to a schmoob such as myself, there is no difference between a good wine and a lesser one. But did these people really think they could fool the real wine drinkers?




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Chardon-nay! Wine industry uncorked by counterfeits



MOREY SAINT DENIS, France -- The challenge of counterfeit wine is threatening to take the fizz out of the industry. As the Pinot noir scandal showed last month, when a dozen wine producers and traders were sentenced by a French court for mislabeling 3.6 million gallons of wine sold to several U.S. wine companies what's behind the label is far from clear.

And the tampering touches the low end of the market as much as the top end.

Pinot noir heaven Burgundy is no exception. Some of its most famous appellations are victim of forgery.
Laurent Ponsot used to be a famous Burgundian wine grower, but now he is an amateur detective too. The story started in April last year, when a friend called him to tell him that one of New York's most energetic fine wine auctioneers was putting under the hammer 107 bottles of one of his most famous vintages. But something wasn't right.

"In that auction there was some Clos St Denis 1945. But we've only been making Clos St Denis since 1982. There was no chance that wine existed. Then tried checked the other bottles on sale that day, and I realized from here in my office that half of them were probably fake," says Ponsot.
Two weeks ago he handed over the bulk of his research to the FBI in New York. Now he can go back to what he does best, making excellent wines.

But to be on the safe side, he decided to apply state of the art technology to protect his bottles, which cost from a hundred euros to a few thousands from forgery.

Five other Burgundy winemakers have followed suit.

The device is a small tag which contains a unique pattern of bubbles, plus a serial number. The consumer can log in the number on the internet and obtain a photo of the bubble tag of that specific bottle. Visually, you can compare the pattern of the bubbles, which is random and unique. This system of authentication, called Prooftag, was invented by chance by a Toulouse firm producing electronic components. The glue started to sizzle up and form random bubbles, and it was realised that this bubble pattern could be used for anti- fraud purposes. To date, 28 chateaux have bought into the technology including Bordeaux Chateau Latour, Burgundy Domaine des Comtes Lafon and Napa Valley Hartwell Estate, to name but a few.

Frank Bourrieris is the marketing director of Prooftag. Asked if the interest of the wine producer in the tag shows the depth of the wine fraud, he says: "It's a difficult question. What I believe is that the stock of fake wine is growing, because a counterfeiter can fake any kind of wine from any year."
"What is dramatic for winemakers is that if they don't take action right now, there might be counterfeit of the wine they are producing today but in ten years, or twenty years, from now".
A 3D tag and more difficult to copy than bar codes, Rfid or holograms, the bubble technology is also currently sold to Swiss watch makers, the cosmetic industry and governments to proof documents. Costs range from 20 cents to one Euro per tag.

Wine experts say fraud is a huge risk.

According to Clive Coates, a master of wine now retired in Burgundy, the extreme rise in price of ultra-premium wines has led to a startling increase in the fraudulent labelling and sale of fake wines.
"Magnums of 1929 Mouton and magnums of Petrus 1982, the sort of things that fetch high prices at auction. And I am quite certain there is a lot of quite dubious bottles there," he says.
"But I think what it boils down to at the end of the day is what I would call caveat emptor, let the buyer beware. It's a silly person who pays silly prices without having done the homework, millionaires who probably cannot tell the difference between Petrus and Romano Conti."

Technology is coming to the rescue of winemakers struggling to protect their vintages from forgery.